Skip to main content

Sprinkler Smart Controller Notes



Our sprinkler system had trouble this summer. After replacing the sprinkler controller and finding out that our problem was a faulty master control valve, I have learned a lot.  

  1. Newer sprinkler systems have a master control valve that has to open every time a zone valve does.  This is a good thing usually to prevent leaks, but also gets used A LOT more than other valves, so it wears out faster. 
  2. You can test each zone with a multimeter for voltage to see if that zone has a fault.
  3. You can use and ohm meter to determine continuity on each zone's wiring as well.
  4.  If you have developed a short, like we did, you may see fluctuations in both voltage and continuity.

Our new sprinkler controller is smart and was able to report back that there was a fault on either the master control valve or each and every zone it tried to run. Because the master control valve showed up on every error report, we started our troubleshooting there.  By replacing the entire valve, we eliminate the wiring issue, the solenoid issue or the diaphragm failing as individual problems and replace the entire part.

Bonus: Our water company has a rebate for people who install smart sprinkler controllers.  That paid for half the expense!  

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Dan's espresso martini recipe

This is my espresso martini recipe. 1 oz cold espresso 1 1/2 oz vodka 1 1/2 oz Kahlua 1 oz creme de cacao I make the espresso fresh and let it cool for about 15 minutes.   After mixing, I pour it into a martini glass with crushed ice.   For ease, sometimes, I do one part of each ingredient and that works well too.

The hot toddy

  2 tbsp of lemon juice (fresh squeezed  if possible) 2 tbsp oz of honey 4 tbsp of whiskey stir well add slice of lime or lemon or orange with cloves sprinkle cinnamon let is sit while you boil water add boiling water to fill cup

How to install smart switches

I replaced some old dumb light switches with new smart light switches.  Note 1 :Before I go through the steps, here is a little bit of important information to know.  There may be several wires required to make the new switch connect - here is the definition of what you should see available in the housing for the switch. Smart light Switch = In my case, this is a wall light switch that has a radio that can be connected ted to a Hub for remote control or for programming on/off/dimmer based upon triggers. The protocol of the radio is z-wave in my case. Line = always hot wire - this is the source of current to the switch. Load =wire that goes to light out the other side of the switch and is only hot when the switch is turned on. Neutral =  White wire (in my house) that carries a current back to the source for the unbalanced portion of the load Ground wire = the wire that grounds the circuit. Note 2: I've only installed z-wave switches with a neutral ...